12-05-08

Happily I felt much better, because we were both looking forward to visit the Koyo-san. Koya-san is a raised tableland covered with thick forests and surrounded by 8 peaks. The major attraction is the monastic complex, also known as Koya-san, which is the headquarters of the Shingon school of Esoteric Buddhism. A unique way to get a glimpse of long-held traditions of Japanese religious life.
The Shingon (or Esoteric Buddhism) religion has been founded by Kobo Daishi in the 9th century. He was not the only Daishi (= great teacher or saint), but anyone talks of the 'daishi', everyone knows who is being referred to. Shingon is the only mayor sect that believes enlightenment can be achieved in this lifetime. Pilgrims have been walking clockwise around Shikoku for over 1000 years following the footsteps of Kobo Daishi. Such used to be a hardship and some of them never made it. Nowadays hardship is not a factor. The pilgrims buzz around in air-conditioned vehicles collecting the 88 temple stamps and give little thought to the past. There are still walkers however.
We got there by public transport (train, cable car, bus), all well organised in Japan and running in time. There are too many temples to see all of them in an afternoon, so we had to limit ourselves. We started with the Kongubi-ji, the headquarters of the Shingon school and the residence of Koya-san's abbot. Some of the rooms have some beautifully painted screens. We loved the 2 typical Japanese rock gardens. We continued with the temple complex of Garan, with several pagodas. We were just in time to see a monk activating the huge bell, present at any Buddhist temple, at 1 p.m. After that we witnessed another monk reciting his prayings at on outside Shinto-temple.
Off for our last main goal of that day, Okuno-in. On the way to it, by feet, we sneaked in some other temples, especially enjoying the beautiful flowers we see every where during this trip. Unfortunately we missed the cherry blossoming, but there are so many other blossoms left, wonderful!
Any Buddhist worth their salt in Japan (according to Lonely Planet) has had their remains, or just a lock of two of hair, interred at this temple to ensure pole position when the future Buddha and Kukai return to the world. So impressive these cemetery grounds along a winding, cobbled path lined by tall cypress trees and thousands of tombs covered with moss.
The Toro-do (Lantern Hall), the main building of the complex houses hundreds of lamps. Also hundreds of Jizo statues, small stone statues if the Buddhist protector of travellers and children. A wonderful day all together.

We returned all together to Osaka, where Arjan & I found our first Internet facility before we had a simple dinner. Yes, still not one of those wonderful dinners which Japan has to offer, but we are patient, we still have plenty of time left!